This casual Thai spot is often overshadowed by its finer-dining sister operation, Langbaan, but Paadee has its own delights: teak tables lit by birdcage light fixtures invite convivial feasts fueled by classic cocktails gone Thai. Fried fish cakes come with a golden crisp. Guay tiew kua gai is a pad Thai relative in its happiest form, rice noodles tangled with sprouts, salted radish, chicken, eggs, and romaine hearts. Crab is given the sumptuous curry treatment. In the summer, windows fling open and tables spill onto the sidewalk; in the winter, the space transforms into a sexy dining den.