This perpetually packed Pearl District joint sports imported Italian fountains and a deli counter filled with all manner of cured meats, while mambo and tango music trickling out of speakers. Patrons come primarily for the superb bucatini all’Amatriciana flecked with pancetta and pecorino, the dense gnocchi with braised beef shinbones, and the simple, fragrant bresaola with a wedge of lemon and arugula insalata.