Take one bite of the tacos here—especially the seafood versions, with cornmeal-crusted, line-caught Alaskan cod or chile-spiked wild shrimp—and you’ll be transported to Baja. The tacos are so good, it can sometimes be hard to try anything else, but they’re small enough that a couple of fried flautas with crema won’t hurt. If you still feel like you’re in Portland, a margarita or fresh-squeezed agua fresca (fruit juice) ought to reorient you farther down south.