Little English is spoken here, and the menu is lengthy. Here’s the deal: sit near the glass windows while munching on banchan, a collection of traditional snacks, from salty kimchi to chile-spiked sausage. Concentrate on noodle dishes, especially the spicy, soul-warming jjol myun (rice noodles, vegetables, hard-boiled egg). Potent stews like kim chee chi gae—a bubbling pot of fiery red broth, slivered pork, and silken tofu—will suck the chill right out of a Portland winter.