Miami transplant and one-time Top Chef villain Micah Edelstein makes no bones: come into her house of cooking, or don’t come at all. She makes her stand with eclectic world food, South African accents, and colossal ambition at brunch and dinner, personally mounting each dish like an art project. Edelstein makes spice blends like a voodoo priestess; you want anything with lamb bacon; rare salts—black olive to rose petal—spur creativity; there are up to six gelatos—rooibos tea to Israeli ale. This should be one of the city’s most exciting new restaurants. Sadly, that promise is hobbled by long waits and inconsistent dishes that don’t always live up to their labor-intensive price tags.