Steaming homemade, perfectly browned flapjacks, sizzling patties of hand-ground sausage, and seared pork belly float off the griddle and into a tiny, sunlit dining room at Toast. But the truly impressive thing about Toast is its ability to wield gravy and grains with equal skill. A hot bowl of farro, tofu and veggies in a roasted onion broth (The Good Monk) is just as delicious as a salty, savory breakfast sandwich of fried eggs, thick bacon and herbaceous, whipped mascarpone. This latter dish is called the Bad Ass Sandwich, a nod to the building’s former incarnation as Angie’s Bad Ass Video. Yep, an X-rated video store. Luckily for us and the dozen other diners munching happily away, pancakes—and neon personalities—have triumphed over porn.