The formula for perfection is precise: Plymouth gin (very English and very dry), a splash of white vermouth, a shimmering dash of lemon oil on the surface and a single olive. It’s the classic dry martini, and yes, thankfully, it’s on the menu.

With a little pun fun for the historically inclined (the bar’s name refers to the Dickensian heyday of gin, as well as the two most common martini garnishes) and a prime location adjacent to Jamison Square in the Pearl, Olive or Twist asserts itself like an impeccable—but very opinionated—host. Which is not to say it won’t let you play around a little, such as with the elegant Rose City Martini, a fragrant bouquet of cucumber-infused Hendrick’s gin, rose water and lime. Packing a more macho punch is the sugar-rimmed Peruvian, balancing the flavors of pepper vodka, mango and lime; garnished with chiles, it’s cold and a tad syrupy at first taste, but spicy going down.

With its requisite selections of champagne, single-malt scotch (used in place of vermouth in the smoky martini, a drink that’s become a staple all over town) and vintage cognacs to accompany light fare and desserts, Olive or Twist succeeds by keeping it simple. The décor is understated and the lighting low, with a floor-to-ceiling window frosted to eye level for privacy. Shades of gray, beige and charcoal flatter the candlelit faces of murmuring professionals, while a comfortable banquette strewn with cushions and the low noise level make Olive or Twist a nightspot for unwinding in relative seclusion without leaving the downtown scene.

Just don’t let the cute name fool you: Here, gin is the new vodka and old is the new … new.