Tucked into the Beaumont-Wilshire neighborhood, better known for stroller-clogged streets and mini doughnuts than fashion-forward cocktails, this upper Fremont bar knows its audience. How else to explain a recent addition to the drinks menu, the “Mommy’s Thyme Out” cocktail, with thyme-infused gin from local Portland distillery Aria, plus a splash of fresh lemon juice, apricot liqueur, and Italian vermouth for $12—or about the price of an hour of babysitting from a neighborhood teen? The bar, a marbled granite horseshoe surrounded by plush blue velvet stools, excels at the classics; Mrs. Maisel herself would find the “manhattan-and-a-half” pretty marvelous. Bonuses: the lights are low, the steak-frites ($15) are positively Parisian (the bar snack brussels sprouts with puckery bacon vinaigrette for $7 are pure Portland, though), and, if you order another drink, you might even be able to forget about the babysitter waiting back at home.