Recommended: Nong’s Khao Man Gai ($6)

There’s only one entrée at this bustling cart—and in this case one is plenty. Khao man gai is nothing more than poached chicken slices laid over rice, but both grain and fowl are simmered in a whisper-subtle gallimaufry of garlic, ginger, and soy sauce that elevates this staple of Thai street food, mysteriously renewing any flagging midday spirits. Elegant and elemental, khao man gai is a nearly magical meal.