Casual Comfort at Township and Range

SE Hawthorne's latest eatery serves family-style fare with a true sense of place.

By Allison Jones April 2, 2013

Welcome back to Eat With Your Eyes, the photo feature that brings Portland's newest menus to your screen. Next up, SE Hawthorne's just-opened Township and Range.

Prescott Allen and Woody Wheeler—the owners of East Burnside's Laurelhurst Theater and NE Halsey's New Deal Cafe—have a fresh project that's set to put them on the map. Inspired by the geopraphical history of Oregon, the Portland metro area, and neighboring Ladd's Addition, Township and Range debuted in March with little fanfare but a lot of heart.

The new family-friendly tavern sits in a former photo printing studio, and is tricked out with walls of reclaimed wood (one in the shape of the Oregon state map), roll-up garage doors that will lead to a soon-to-be-built patio come summertime, framed photos of the neighborhood, and maps of regional landmarks.

The owners are obviously geography buffs, but their sense of place isn't limited to maps and titular city survey terms: the comfort-food menu is deliciously grounded, forgoing recent trends of international flavors and tech-heavy techniques in favor of family-style fare like beer-braised pork shanks, buttermilk fried chicken, and rare roast beef with horseradish cream alongside hearty servings of perfect mashed potatoes (the secret? Warm cream and cold butter, never melted).

Township and Range's soulful kitchen draws on the talents of Portland restaurant veteran Jon Beeaker, a Bluehour and Saucebox alumn who opened his own Acme Food and Drink before spending six years managing kitchens at New Seasons Markets. The guiding force behind that fifteen year career? A dedication to getting the recipe right every time, whether the meal's served atop white tablecloths or eaten from the seat of a grocery cart. Beeaker is joined by pastry chef Melissa McKinney, another Bluehour veteran and owner of her own Criollo Bakery. Together, the pair dish out happy hour and dinner (complete with kids menu), seven nights a week.

Dive into the full menu by clicking on the slideshow above, and stop in for yourself to try the specialties of the house, each serving as a comforting compass rose, a reminder that You Are Here.

Township and Range
2422 SE Hawthorne Blvd

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