Love it or hate it, eggnog has made its triumphant annual return to grocery store coolers. Many brands await you, from Oregon staple Alpenrose to au naturel brands like Alexandre Family Farm. Even vegan nogs have entered the fray. Which ones, for those eggnog lovers out there, are worth stocking in your fridge? And will any of them convert the anti-eggnog crowd? Read on for our results.

The Best Eggnog

Alexandre Family Farm Homegrown Eggnog

We had high hopes for this eggnog, and it did not disappoint, despite being the most expensive of the bunch, at $12.39 for 28 ounces. But this is one worth the splurge. Its deep yellow-gold color is pleasing—from egg yolks and turmeric listed in the ingredients—as is its thick, melted-ice-cream-like texture. As one of the lower-sugar options (13 grams of sugar per half-cup serving) with a strong clove flavor, it’s decidedly a nog for grown-ups.

The Good Eggnogs

Alpenrose Natural Eggnog and New Seasons Eggnog

After trying to detect differences between Alpenrose and New Seasons’ nog, we found a small label on the New Seasons carton that reveals that it is, in fact, made by Alpenrose. Mystery solved! Testers liked this nog’s thick, creamy texture. But this is not for the sugar-averse. Packed with 21 grams of sugar per half-cup serving, the resemblance to bubblegum was too strong for two of our testers. On the plus side, it makes a good mixer for hard liquors like rum and whiskey.

Organic Valley Reduced Fat Eggnog

This eggnog, unlike the others, had visible flecks of warm spice including cinnamon and cardamom, which helped balance out its bubblegum-esque notes. It’s moderately sweet, at 17 grams of sugar per serving. But since it’s reduced fat, some of the extravagant creaminess and thickness that makes eggnog special is lost here. This year, Organic Valley is skipping the full-fat version it’s made in past years and is only producing its reduced-fat variety.

The Eggnog to Avoid

Califia Farms Almond Milk Holiday Nog

Creating a nog with neither eggs nor cream is quite a feat, so our expectations were low. And we were still disappointed by this egg-free nog, which overwhelmed us with its powerful bubblegum flavor—like we’d just chewed a whole roll of Hubba Bubba Bubble Tape. Its watery texture did little to convince us that it’s a celebratory indulgence.