From fancy brunch spots and bars to an eclectic bonanza of locally owned shops, this area is a gold mine for wanderers with a hunger for Portland culture writ large. It’s a booming area, massive new condo projects popping up like dandelions, where only a decade ago you may have found empty lots and storefronts. It’s also a place where disputes over bike lanes can take on the tone of family feuds. Much of the unsettled feeling of the area comes from its bitter legacy of displacement. Historically one of Portland’s few black neighborhoods, it was gutted by decades of so-called urban renewal and construction, with gentrification eventually pushing many of Albina’s long-time residents out of the area all together. So, yeah, it’s complicated. Enjoy this area, but don’t forget your history.

Where am I? The general boundaries covered in this guide are North Mississippi from North Fargo to North Skidmore, and the North Williams and North Vancouver couplet between Northeast Russell and Northeast Skidmore. In other words, North Mississippi between Liberty Glass and Prost and North Williams from Wonder Ballroom to Vendetta. (That’s why you won’t find Sweedeedee and Mississippi Records in this area guide!)

In This Feature:

Where to Eat & Drink in Portland's N Mississippi/Williams Neighborhood

Smoked chicken sandwiches, fancy brunch, cult coffee shops, and elephantine Fijian feasts—come hungry.

11/01/2017 Edited by Kelly Clarke By Staff

15 Perfectly Portland Shops in the N Mississippi/Williams Neighborhood

Vinyl records and fancy salts to natural oddities and feminist art, this hip 'hood stocks all our local obsessions.

11/01/2017 Edited by Kelly Clarke By Staff

5 Places to Play in Portland's N Mississippi/Williams Neighborhood

It’s all about board game battles, great bands, and boxing rings.

11/01/2017 Edited by Kelly Clarke By Staff

5 Places That Exist Only in Portland's N Mississippi/Williams Neighborhood

You want tiny orchestras, storied toilets, and beverages that forecast the future? This area’s got you covered.

11/01/2017 Edited by Kelly Clarke By Staff

Where N Mississippi/Williams Insiders Really Eat, Drink, and Play

These are the storied parks, backyard bars, and oddball food carts where the neighbors hang out.

11/01/2017 Edited by Kelly Clarke By Staff

Revisiting the Mid-Century Jazz Clubs and Soul Food Kitchens of Portland’s Albina Neighborhood

Before it became a chic bike thoroughfare, N Williams was a compact universe of black-owned businesses.

08/15/2016 By Kelly Clarke

From the Archives: By the Grace of God

With the gentrification of North and Northeast Portland, churches hold the city’s African American community together. But how much longer can the bonds last?

02/17/2012 By Aaron Scott