In Portland, African cuisine is often shorthand for Ethiopian food. But Akadi rockets eaters to the continent’s lesser known western region—redolent with smoked fish-funked flavors, smooth balls of cassava fufu, and chile pepper–rumbling sauces—the culinary touchstones of chef Fatou Ouattara’s native Ivory Coast. The setting for all this is a small, mural-adorned dining room and sprawling, covered outside chamber that aims to channel the warmth of the bustling maqui (open-air restaurants) found from Burkina Faso to Togo, complete with palm wine cocktails. The kitchen might run out of ice—or a third of its menu—on any given night. And waiting for your order can seem as long as an actual flight to Abidjan. But food this soulful and connective is worth waiting for.