This cinder-block bunker serves delicious culinary provocations on a street better known for hipster aspirations. It takes audacity to put crunchy chicken skin at the center of a salad hosting cubes of fresh watermelon while making room for the heady surprise of Thai chiles, watercress vines, and a carpet of baba ghanoush. Chef Sarah Pliner’s approach unfolds slowly on a seemingly random list of dishes, each its own constellation of cuisines and visual juxtapositions. France winks at Chinatown; Japan dances with India. Any given night turns up plenty of food and drink to tease the mind and make your tongue smile.