In a city of pop-ups and counter service, Chesa is a real-deal restaurant. The Northeast PDX dining room, from the team behind tapas hot spot Ataula, is already firing on all cylinders, with a good number of dishes to blow your mind and no mandate to bus your own table. In other words, a minor miracle. Here, Barcelona-born chef-owner Jose Chesa pushes his playful Catalonian home cooking into a modern zone. Some 20 starters—tapas, snacks, and two-bite wonders—vie for attention. Wild porcini croquettes are an instant addiction, what mashed potatoes would taste like if they grew in the woods. Paellas are the crowning achievement here, with six nightly options smoked over charcoal. Get the calamari-strewn Barceloneta, dark as crude oil, bound in lobster broth, with a shell-on langostine on top, meant to be ripped open with your hands. Next door, Chesa’s sister xurros café, 180, fries up Spain’s long, skinny doughnuts all day—hot, super-crisp and weightless, perfect for dunking into a rich cup of xocolata.