Portland’s mythical food scene lives on within this perfectionistic, votive-glowing, defiantly uncool den. No chef statements here, just a sensibility—pristine oysters, masterful seared scallops, or perhaps duck sided by persimmons so ripe you’d swear it’s custard. The worn wood bar hides a deep trove of cult Champagnes and infallible wines poured into glassware typically reserved for the swanky set. At 76, Portland food legend Jerry Huisinga (Genoa, Bar Mingo) has teamed up with Davenport’s ingredient Jedi Kevin Gibson—two white-jacketed titans together at last. It’s like watching Pacino and De Niro in Heat. Huisinga makes the ethereal gnocchi; Gibson makes the devastating lamb neck sugo on top. It may be the best thing you’ll eat this year.