DOC redefines the idea of the chef’s counter, with every table positioned in view of the two chefs at work in the teeny, intimate kitchen. A la carte options are available, but the five-course tasting menu rules at DOC: antipasti, primi (pasta and risotto), secondi (entrées), formaggi (cheese), and dessert, plus a bread course with olives. One day’s produce might bring a haul of summer vegetables layered in lasagna, or a primi of lobster mushroom risotto sprinkled with chives. Wine man Austin Morris Bridges pours pairings by the full or half glass from one of Portland’s best Italian wine programs.