Portland is surveying a new frontier: Russia. Kachka’s boisterous take on the country’s traditional cuisine, as reimagined by chef Bonnie Morales and her husband, Israel, centers on vodka and all the requisite cured fish, dumplings, and cabbage-wrapped meat that come with the territory. With its small tables groaning under plates of vareniki bulging with tangy farmers cheese and satisfying beef tongue (fried to a crisp but meltingly tender inside), plus caviar and traditional Soviet sweets, Kachka just might kick-start a homegrown Russian revolution. In 2018, Portland's much-loved Soviet-era eatery split into two: Kachka proper moved to the Goat Blocks, while the original SE Grand space became Kachinka—a dedicated cocktail bar.