Chef John Gorham takes on the Mediterranean, from Morocco to Turkey and Greece, at this big, boisterous Pearl District dining room. Inspired in part by Tasty n Sons’ signature Israeli dish shakshuka, the restaurant’s vibe is pure comfort-chic, right down to the tiered menu of shared plates: from a fiery roasted-pumpkin-and-carrot dip destined to replace hummus to the standout chreime, a silky cod “stew” native to Jewish families in Tripoli that sings with caraway and cardamom, serrano peppers, and tomato. With his knack for grafting distant flavors onto Northwest dining, the chef continues to be a tour guide worth following to new ports of call.