Do you like your sushi rolls stuffed with cream cheese, slicked with spicy mayo, and layered like an undersea turducken? Then you (repugnant American) will positively hate Hawthorne sushi house Nimblefish. The project from Portland sushi vets Cody Auger (Hokusei, Fukami), Dwight Rosendahl (Masu), and notable wine man Kurt Heilemann (Davenport), is an old-school nigiri-and-handroll-only operation for purists who appreciate a good white burgundy as much as a fatty slice of otoro tuna.