A veritable Rose City titan with three locations across Portland, Pho Van sports a lighter, less-assertive broth with hints of anise and clove that flick the back of the tongue. The noodles have a stellar, springy texture, with flavorful, marbled meat throughout. Bonus points for best “to-go” pho, with the raw round steak packed in a separate plastic bag and real, earthy ground chiles for sprinkling.