Israeli-leaning Ray rose from the ashes of Lincoln, Jen Louis’s farm-to-table eatery, which shuttered after nine years in the same space. Louis—petite, wispy-haired, and student of global cooking—is the star of this North Williams show. Alas, Ray’s food, from the bland Sephardic chicken to the faint hummus, is a one-note echo of Louis’s memorable journeys. The brightest ray of hope? Shawarma fries, boldly sizzled with jalapeños and whole garlic—skins and all—then spiced to a heady fragrance. The dish is everything you wish Ray could be.