Decorated only with strips of wooden coat pegs on spare white walls, and furnished in black and blond woods, Roost recalls classic British brasseries of yore; places where simple, well-prepared food and pleasant company take center stage. In this quiet setting, chef Megan Henzel showcases a classic, New England style of comfort food, but with modern touches and a flavorful boost from regional ingredients. Anchored by comforting classics, the menu rotates with the seasons and Henzel’s whims. Stews and braises are highlights—tender, falling-apart meat cooked in a bath of seasonal vegetables and flavorful broth. Skirt steak is grilled to a perfect medium-rare, dressed with a boisterous red wine sauce, and paired with a creamy cauliflower and potato gratin. Ironically, the menu’s flashiest item is the “burger”: braised beef, shredded and wrapped in caul fat, is seared and served on an open-faced bun with watercress, aioli, horseradish sauce, and a braising jus on the side—a kind of playful, high-end sloppy joe that forces diners to get messy.