On jam-packed weekend evenings, kids sometimes outnumber adults at Russell's fir-appointed dining room. Which explains the warning scrawled on the chalkboard near the register: “Wandering children will be given a double shot of espresso and a puppy to take home.” Blame the parental inattention on the slow-cooked pork ribs, slathered in five distinct varieties of barbecue sauce. But parents be warned: Unless you happened to wean your little bumpkin on bottles of habanero sauce, stick to the mildest rendition, “Kind,” ostensibly tempered for “kids and delicate palates.” The friendly management provides other diversions—mild chicken strips and ice cream sundaes—to keep the little ones eating happily while Mom and Pop pig out with utter abandon.