Sardine Head, a “natural wine dive bar” that commandeers indie breakfast café Sweedeedee three nights a week, has cracked the code that bedevils the smartest sommeliers of our day: how to make wine appeal to a generation chugging cocktails and craft brews. Themed wines weave among roughly 50 bottles and 10 glass pours, most priced $10 or less. Information is bare bones: the winery, the year, the place. No grape types, no vineyard plots. Instead, Sardine Head levels the playing field with a few “tasting notes” for each option. Just say: “I’ll have the violettes, iron, and aspirin,” and you’re good. The food is humble and thoughtful, inspired by coastal Brittany (home to Lowry’s grandparents), seasonal produce, and White’s fishmonger days. Sardine Head feels fresh and new but also like Old Portland: created by enthusiastic people figuring things out on the fly, on a bootstrapping budget. That is reason enough to raise a glass and toast.