No place better distills the essence of 1970s New York—Mean Streets New York—in pie form. Scott Rivera pays tribute to hometown heroes from Brooklyn. But, typical in Portland, he pulls a hodgepodge of ideologies and obsessions into his pizza gestalt. In the mix: the DNA of a New York corner slice and the art of Neapolitan pie, all melded into something ineluctably crispy, chewy, tender, and tangy. The original Southeast shop has corner-joint character, plus whole pies, limited slices, and a few coveted seats. Northwest has plentiful booths, wine and beer, and Portland’s most serious slice game, sesame-clad Frankie P slices to squares of DeFino pie (grandma-style). Upgrade any slice with a big dollop of decadent burrata for a buck.