Spielman Bagels is the dominant force in Portland’s quiet, ever-raging bagel wars. After 18 years in the coffee roasting trenches, Rick Spielman made an impressive leap into his own, self-made bagel world. He stakes his brand on the little-known sourdough bagel, putting its tart flavor at the center of a dozen variations, from sweet golden raisin and fennel to the “Seedy,” collaged with the gold, black, and green seeds of flax, sesame, and pumpkin. Sandwiches, from an archetypal egg, ham, and cheese to bacon, cream cheese, arugula and jam make the growing DIY bagel upstart an indispensable breakfast player.