When Erik Van Kley flew the coop at beloved Little Bird in early 2015, who’d have guessed that the talented chef would return with a vibrant detour to the American South by way of Asia. His new industrial- cozy space—so close to its namesake tracks that train whistles soundtrack your dinner—excels in clever, flavor- packed plates of what he terms “borderless” American cuisine: One of the city’s best braised-grilled octopus mingles with bright yogurt and spicy-smoky tomatoes. Spiny king crab, slathered in spicy sweet chile sauce, comes with house-baked butter-bomb rolls (and Wet-Naps, of course). And soft, silky grits in a pool of soy sauce, topped with hunks of pork belly, a head-on shrimp, and a shower of scallions? Pure salty, funky comfort. Service is sharp, the wine and cocktail list brims with food-friendly finds, and the room, with its iron and concrete details, is tailor made for casually chic dinners. All aboard.