The ambitious 9,000-square-foot gastro-brewery turns the beer-first paradigm on its head. Rodney Muirhead of Podnah’s Pit and La Taq captains the “slightly refined” food program. So it’s no surprise that steak frites and perfectly-turned sausages are Wayfinder’s north star, brightened further by a crisp, mustard seed-studded house sauerkraut, smoked prime rib, and fall-off-the-bone duck confit. Other dishes, like the over-brined chicken al carbon, veer off course. And in general, vegetable dishes feel like an afterthought. But set against the backdrop of a fragrant blond fir deck with a flickering fire pit, there’s plenty to enjoy at Wayfinder—its gorgeous list of German guest beers to start. Head brewer Kevin Davey, formerly of Firestone Walker and Gordon Biersch, will eventually focus on lagers. For now, it’s no sacrifice to sip hard-to-find pints of Weihenstephan Original Helles and Flensburger Pilsener, chased with an off-menu digestif of cumin-infused house aquavit.