Drawing from what the Thais call aahaan kap klaem, or food made for eating with whiskey, Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker re-creates Asian pub snacks without compromising for Western palates: stewed pork, frog legs, and a bamboo shoot salad, all designed to be washed down with drinking vinegars, cocktails, and ice-cold bia wun, or “jelly beer.” Begin your education with kai saam yang (toasted peanuts, minced shallots, lemongrass, and salt flecks) and neua sawan (deep-fried beef shreds served with lime leaves). The pad Thai, served only after 10 p.m., is Portland’s best.