Former Aviary chef Jasper Shen brings his take on soup dumplings, a.k.a. xiao long bao to Portland. The dumplings—pleated purses full of garlic- and ginger-flecked pork and scorching-hot, deeply spiced broth—headline Shen’s atmospheric little North Portland Chinese restaurant, joined by a dozen or so strictly un-Americanized noodle dishes, mellow chicken bites, and steamed buns.