Amid the magnificent slopes of the Pacific Northwest, cross-country skiing often languishes in the shadow of alpine. Compared to the thrills of downhill, Nordic (as cross-country is also known) can seem so slow, so sedate.

Put another way: Cross-country skiing is gloriously serene. It's quiet, presents little risk of injury, and has a low barrier to entry. (Scroll down for tips on rental gear, which can cost as little as $15 per day.) It gets you out of the city and into the splendors of a snow-covered landscape. And slow? Sure, it might not be a high-speed affair, but the sport can be a strenuous workout if you want it to be.

For those new to skinny skis, here's all you need to know get yourself out on the trail. Looking for where to go? We've got you covered on that front, too.

Cross-Country 101

Beanies: a great way to overheat. (1) Headbands for the win!

Even under gray skies, snow still produces glare, so pack sunscreen and (2) sunglasses. (Leave the big ski goggles at home.)

Carrying too much weight will throw off your balance, so stick to a (3) fanny pack or small backpack. Beyond water and snacks—maybe a thermos with hot cocoa?—consider packing moleskin or tape for blister prevention. 

This is an aerobic activity, so resist the urge to overdress—it’s OK to start out feeling a little chilly. Opt for (4) lightweight layers that allow for a good range of motion. If you run cold, a thin insulated vest can do wonders.

(5) Bindings, which must be compatible with your boots, have come in a slew of styles over the years (three-pin bindings with duckbill boots, anyone?). These days, you’re most likely to encounter New Nordic Norm, or NNN, which have a small clamp that attaches to a bar at the toe.

Cross-country (6) poles are longer than what you’d use for downhill and should reach between the armpit and the shoulder. They provide propulsion and stability, and come in clutch if you lose your balance. 

Just as in hiking, (7) boots can make or break your day. Unlike the armored downhill version, cross-country boots are lightweight and flexible. They don’t lock in at the heel, allowing you to push yourself forward.

The most common technique for classic skiers is the (8) diagonal stride, also known as kick and glide. You move your body weight onto your front leg as it glides forward, the rear leg extending behind and the back ski lifting slightly. Arms move opposite to the legs, like in running. The technique takes practice, so don’t be shy about shuffling instead.

(9) Skis are long, skinny, and light. These features make them less stable than their downhill counterparts and make turning and stopping more challenging. On the upside: efficient gliding.

In machine-groomed ski areas, you’ll find set (10) tracks designed for classic skiing. Your skis slot into these striding rails, which help keep them parallel and guide you forward. 

(11) Wax comes in two main types: Kick wax gives grip, while glide wax gives, well, glide. Choice depends on temperature and snow quality, and it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the array of options (and opinions). Newbies are well-served by a universal glide wax, which should be applied to just the ski tips and tails, not to the area under the binding. 

BUT WAIT, WHAT’S SKATE? 

A more recently developed style of cross-country skiing—it began to take off in the ’80s—skate skiing uses a side-to-side motion akin to ice skating. It requires different equipment and works best on a groomed surface that resembles corduroy. (In other words, it’s less flexible than classic, which can be done in or out of groomed tracks.) It’s a vigorous workout, and the learning curve is steeper, so most folks start out on classic skis before making the leap.

Cross-Country Skiing Rentals, Lessons, and Clubs near Portland

Here’s where to get your gear, learn some technique, and even make a few new friends.

Get Your Gear

The Mountain Shop offers Portland’s widest fleet of cross-country rentals, including classic, skate, touring, and even roller skis for dryland training. A basic classic package (skis, poles, boots) costs $30 for two nights, with additional nights at $10. A kid’s version is $20 for two nights, $8 for each additional night. Committed? Spring for a season lease or a 30-day rental. If you buy within one year, the shop will apply a rental credit to your purchase. 

From its Portland and Sandy locations, Next Adventure rents metal-edged skis that are suitable for ungroomed terrain but still fit into the tracks at groomed ski areas. Skis, poles, and boots cost $30 per day, $15 for each extra day. A kid’s classic package—no metal edges—is $20 per day, $10 for each extra day. 

Learn Some Technique

Mt. Hood Meadows holds two-hour group lessons twice a day Thursday–Monday and every day during winter and spring school breaks. On select days, a $69 package includes a group lesson, classic rentals, and a track ticket. Private, semiprivate, and kids’ lessons are also available. 

Mountaineering nonprofit the Mazamas runs classic and Nordic backcountry programs that unfold over two or three sessions. 2025 tuition runs $230 for Mazamas members and $265 for nonmembers. 

Wy’East Nordic offers private, two-person, and small group lessons, including for families. Lessons, held weekdays only, take place at Teacup Lake and start at $125 for a two-and-a-half-hour session. 

Make New Friends

Teacup Lake Nordic Club is the mostly volunteer-run nonprofit that maintains the ski area of the same name. Offerings include roller ski clinics, races, ski swaps, group workouts, and multiweek training programs for both kids and adults. 

The Portland branch of the Oregon Nordic Club sponsors an impressive roster of overnight trips across the region, plus day tours to Mount Hood and Southwest Washington. In the summer, the club holds volunteer work parties to maintain and improve local ski trails. 

Just for Fun: 3 Notable Moments in Oregon Cross-Country Ski History

John Templeton Craig

Once, skiing was a way people traveled. People like mail carrier John Templeton Craig, who in 1877 got caught in a storm with a pack full of Christmas post and froze to death in his McKenzie Pass cabin. In 1934, a race was held in his honor—an event that’s continued, on and off and in various forms, for the 90 years since.

Crater Lake Ski Race

In February 1927, a couple dozen skiers embarked on a 42-mile race from Fort Klamath to Crater Lake and back; the Associated Press called it “one of the greatest battles of endurance, of wits and of the elements ever held in the northwest.” Early contests attracted thousands of spectators, but crowds waned. It ran until 1938, as ski lifts arrived and downhill skiing stole its thunder.

Stumptown Birkebeiner

A perk of Portland’s poor plowing: urban skiing. Since 2008, snowfall in the city has sent Nordic-loving locals on an impromptu, very informal race through Northwest Portland, starting at Powell’s City of Books. Known as the Stumptown Birkebeiner, it has drawn upwards of 100 people—including, in 2021, Portland Pickles mascot Dillon T.