Slideshow

Slide Show: Laurelhurst Market's Smoked Ice

April 17, 2013

Spheres of hand-chipped ice lend an intensely smokey aroma to Laurelhurst Market's signature cocktail. Bartender Eric Nelson explains that the oversized ice cube prevents it from melting too quickly—keeping the flavors unadulterated while offering a smok

Applewood chips are heated until they catch fire.

Nelson loads a perforated tray with chunks of ice and places another tray underneath to catch the meltwater. He sets the smoldering pile of Applewood chips on the bottom of the smoker, letting the billowing plumes percolate into the water for an hour.

Once refrozen, Nelson chisels away at the blocks of smoked ice, forming rough spheres that fit perfectly in lowball glasses.

Ice-chipping is dangerous work. Nelson has the word "relax" carved into his handle. Back when Evan Zimmerman was head honcho, the ice-chipper had the word "KILL" engraved instead.

Nelson makes pecan syrup, simmering toasted pecans, sugar, and water and filtering the sticky concoction through a fine sieve.

The final act: whiskey, pecan syrup, amontillado sherry, and lemon juice are given a vigorous shakedown before being strained over a globe of smoked ice.

Over the past few years, Portland's cocktail revolution has ushered in a few iconic drinks: the barrel-aged negroni at Clyde Common, the New Vieux at Beaker & Flask, and the tart drinking vinegars at Pok Pok. But none captured the imagination of the city's whiskey-obsessed imbibers like Laurelhurst Market's Smoke Signals. Developed by mixologist mastermind Evan Zimmerman in 2008, this warming whiskey cocktail comes together with a sweet, nutty pecan syrup, a zing of amontillado sherry, and most importantly, a heady nose of smoked ice. The basic elements—pecans, whiskey, sherry—are evocative of Zimmerman's childhood in Virginia. Sipping this drink has the same effect as taking a swig of Jack Daniels two feet from a blazing bonfire.

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