Slideshow

Slide Show: Opening Day at Andy Ricker's Sen Yai

May 17, 2013

Kuaytiaw Reua "Boat Noodles" inspired by food vendors along the canals of Thailand (a savory and spice broth loaded with stewed beef, poached beef, housemade meatballs, fragrant and smoky dry chiles, and rice noodles)

Andy Ricker oversees Sen Yai's street vendor-inspired noodle station.

Sen Yai ("Big Noodle") is divided into two interior dining rooms (together seating around 50) complete with art and artifacts from Ricker's annual seven-week sojourns to Bangkok and beyond.

Ricker's take on Phat Thai, customizable with ground pork, fresh prawns, vegan, wrapped in an omelette, or with glass noodles instead of rice noodles (but NO chicken!).

Noodles are the focus, but like all Ricker joints, a full bar of well-chosen drinks will flow. Also in the mix are plenty of imported beers and "esoteric non-alcoholic drinks," the likes of dried lam yai, artichoke, and sugarcane.

Sen Yai adds another anchor to a Division Street food vortex that includes Duane Sorenson’s Ava Gene’s and the June-opening Roman Candle Bakery across the street, Lauretta Jean’s pie shop steps away, and a new branch of ice cream phenom Salt and Straw, o

Ba Mii Tom Yam Muu Haeng: 'Dry' wheat noodles with ground pork, pork balls, cracklings, peanuts, bean spouts, long beans, preserved radish, fried garlic, chili vinegar, fish sauce, and chili powder with broth on the side.

Ricker is also deep in galley proofs for the Pok Pok cookbook, scheduled to drop on October 29 from Ten Speed Press.

Sen Yai will also offer several flavors of housemade ice cream by the pint, including durian, Thai tea, coconut-jackfruit (dairy free), pandan, mango, vanilla-bourbon, and condensed milk.

Sen Yai’s dozen-plus noodle repertoire—soups to dry to stir-fried—will crack open what Ricker calls “a new horizon of possibilities, noodles not typically found in Thai restaurants in America."

Phak Buung Fai Daeng, or 'red fire water spinach', a delicious and fiery mix of on choy, garlic, Thai chiles, preserved yellow beans, oyster and fish sauces. The menu states "In Thailand, this dish is often thrown flaming from the wok by the cook and cau

A soon-to-be-packed outdoor patio can accomodate 50+ eaters and drinkers happily navigating the loaded menu.

The wait is over: Andy Ricker's noodle house Sen Yai has landed. The James Beard Award-winning Pok Pok mastermind has transformed the former Kappaya sushi space on SE Division into a teal-hued Thai breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot with a focus on Kuaytiaw, stir-fried and broth-laden noodles—think colorful Portland-friendly comfort fare with a spicy twist. All photos by Allison Jones.

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