The Dentons have delivered some of Portland’s all-time eccentric food highs, maple pork cornflakes to a clam chowder sporting a smoked marrow bone. But at their downtown Bistro Agnes, it’s French comfort cooking, by the book and straighter than an asparagus spear. Call it French Normcore. There’s much to like: a friendly vibe, a blue-hued room that grows sexier as the night advances, a serious absinthe list, and a broad menu of Parisian hits, from sole meunière to steak au poivre. The cheeseburger might be the kitchen’s biggest dare: eight ounces of wagyu-style beef, bun and all, on a lake of Bordelaise sauce. You eat it with a knife and fork, like a haute French dip. Bistro Agnes is already a good restaurant. The question is, can it grow into a memorable one?