Everything to love and parody about Portland swirls in a Coava cup. Never have you seen people more jazzed about the intricacies of soil management. Alice Waters might blush at the company’s farmer hero worship. Owner Matt Higgins grows 30-plus varieties of coffee plants around his office, just to study their agronomy. His goal: to extract every fruity, racy nuance from the single-origin beans. Order a pour-over—hot water theatrically slow-dripped over grounds, twinkling beautifully through a house-made metal cone. Ask for milk if you dare.