Enoteca Nostrana looks nothing like its neighboring mother restaurant, Nostrana, nor the city’s formulaic, aseptic restaurant mode. Instead, it’s an expensive marvel of postmodern Italian design: Tetris tiles in shades of gray, squishy Champagne-cork-inspired bar stools, and pastel-hued Pixar-logo lamps. Sommelier Austin Morris Bridges stocks the 2,000-plus-bottle cellar—an impressive, well-aged library of Italian wines. But Enoteca isn’t just a boozy waiting room—it has its own kitchen and menu of Italian staples and snacks, including an intensely smoky oyster dip that falls somewhere between stringy queso and bluefish pâté, and a DIY tomato pasta. Silly? Yes. But you’d be hard-pressed to find a better spaghetti in red sauce anywhere in the city.