Farm Spirit

Chef Aaron Adams plates dishes from his multi-course vegetable odyssey.

Photography by Stuart Mullenberg

Gluten-Free, Pacific Northwest, Vegan
Price Scale

Chef Aaron Adams’s self-assured Buckman dining room boasts whimsical modernist vegan tasting menus and grand, self-imposed sourcing limits. (Nearly everything on the menu comes from less than 100 miles away.) Sit at his long chef’s counter, and his pure devotion to local fruits and vegetables shines. Carrots cook sous vide in their own sweet juices before getting seared black in cast iron, like steaks. Skinned, dehydrated tomatoes masquerade as strawberries, each a one-bite burst of late-summer salty sweetness. Plates arrive dressed with weird, wonderful cultured seed sauces and an herbalist’s almanac of flowers and leaves. One dish holds the lilting sense memory of sitting in a grassy field as a kid; another tastes like clarified pond scum, little rounds of Swiss chard standing in for lily pads. All from a man as likely to recount his intense “love at first sight” for chives at the farmers market as to high-five your fellow diners or sing, loudly. Farm Spirit isn’t just “great for a vegan restaurant.” It’s great. Period.

Meal Times
Dinner, Lunch
Good to Know

Farm Spirit

1403 SE Belmont St, Portland, OR, 97214
Wed–Fri 11am–2pm, dinner by reservation<br>Sat dinner by reservation