G-Love is the center of Slabtown’s beating heart, and it knows it. Chef Garrett Benedict serves a manicured menu of clean-living cuisine to a manicured crowd with “Stayin’ Alive” semi-ironically blaring. Avocados abound, giving body to the likes of the farm-confetti Ensalada Bomba. Love it or pretend to hate it, the seed-clad Crusty Avocado, stuffed with caviar and tuna poke, is an icon of Portland dining. Stick to the lighter fare; even avocado ranch can’t save the fried chicken. At the new next-door bar, the Love Shack, kitschy-delicious snacks like wonton tuna tacos come dim sum style. G-Love’s universe knows what it is and plays the part well.