According to its mission statement, G-Love “flips the script” on traditional meat theater and our lust for he-man beef hunks—casting vegetables as the star and relegating protein, steak to fish, to side-dish status, doled out in ancillary portions. Instead of choosing rib eye or tenderloin, goes the thinking, we’ll lick our chops over peak-season produce, Romano beans to rainbow carrots, illuminated in a collection of naturalistic dishes meant for sharing (pity the diner not up for sharing these days), with nothing more than $20. The format, explains chef-owner Garrett Benedict, “is better for the planet, your wallet, your health, and not least, the way I like to eat.”