When you first venture into Kirari West Gluten Free Bakery Cafe + Smoothie, it’s likely that the first thing you’ll notice is the pastry case. It’s filled with the all-stars from Kirari West’s original locations in California, the ones the regulars always ask for. You might have to remind yourself that they are gluten-free, like everything else on offer.

Once you’ve made your choice, you might begin to notice the fresh vegetables and fruits in brimming baskets on the counter, ready for smoothies and juices. Maybe you take in the light-filled, industrial-chic interior, mostly decorated with living plants, while scanning for a table. Maybe you’re still focused on the cinnamon brioche with cream cheese frosting.

Although Kirari West is new to Portland, Hiro Saito, the mastermind behind the brand, opened his first location in California in 2015. Saito has the restaurant business in his blood–his family owns a restaurant in Japan, where he grew up. When he moved to the US, first to New York City and then to Los Angeles, he continued to work in restaurants. It was in one of these that he had a front-row seat to the beginning of more widely available gluten-free offerings on menus. He loved seeing the happiness of diners who were used to not having options–but he also wanted those options to be better than they were.

With a leap of faith, lots of experimentation, and very long hours, Saito built Kirari West into a household name for gluten-free baked goods. For him, it was a challenge, a puzzle, how could he tweak recipes to make them the best they could be? He developed a custom gluten-free flour mix until it was just right, baking as he went. The goal was to make pastries and bread that surprised gluten-free eaters with their high caliber and were also enjoyable for those who eat gluten–a goal he’s met. Specifically, he has focused on fluffy and moist qualities, which he often found lacking in gluten-free baked goods he sampled. Ten years into this journey, Saito is still always looking for ways to make everything better.

The Portland location combines all the best of the two other locations and adds even more–in addition to a diverse and delicious collection of baked goods, you’ll also find fresh juices and smoothies, sandwiches, quinoa bowls, and other menu items selected to help you support your wellness deliciously. Everything served in the cafe is gluten-free, to prevent cross-contamination, but even if you eat gluten, this menu has been designed with you in mind–there’s a reason why roughly 50% of the regulars eat gluten elsewhere, but keep coming back to Kirari West all the same.

Though Saito doesn’t always use Japanese flavors, he’s always been inspired by his country of origin. Japan sets a high standard for baked goods, which contributed to his sweet tooth. He also feels a connection to his brother, who opened a gluten-free bakery in Japan. For him, drawing on his Japanese roots might show up subtly, as when he adds a little less sugar than he would with an American recipe. He’s always thinking about how to showcase simple, excellent ingredients so that they speak for themselves and harmonize well together, which is part of the Japanese food philosophy he grew up with.

When you walk into this cafe, you probably won’t be aware of all the influences that make it what it is. You won’t see the journey from Japan to LA, or the idea that took root as gluten-free options began to make their way onto menus. You will probably be drawn to the pastry case, to something fluffy and maybe a little decadent, maybe you’ll pair it with a snack, a salad, or something to sip on. Maybe you’ll meet a friend, or pause your workday for lunch, or pick up a treat. You get to tell the story from there. But chances are, if you take that first bite, you’ll be back for more.