Oregon Coast Guide: X Marks the Spot for Outdoor Adventurers

Port of Call: Gold Beach

By Kasey Cordell May 20, 2011 Published in the June 2011 issue of Portland Monthly

Tutu tun lodge by rogue river ncqopq

Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge


TU TU’ TUN LODGE; from $215
Situated on the Rogue River, seven miles up from where author Zane Grey’s beloved waterway hits the sea, Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge doesn’t just offer a majestic wilderness escape, it insists upon it. From wood-burning fireplaces to plush beds you have to crawl up into, and outdoor soaking tubs with some rooms, no creature comfort has been overlooked at Tu Tu’ Tun—except for TVs. None of the riverview rooms have them. Then again, who needs one when you’ve got a wall of windows framing the fiery drama of every sunrise and sunset and a river outside beckoning, come, take a walk beside me.

Each of these cottages, dotted along on the beach, is unique: some come with knotty pine walls, while others showcase enormous stone wood-burning fireplaces. But they all sit within sniffing distance of the Pacific. So no matter which cabin you choose, you’ll be lulled to sleep by the comforting sound of the somersaulting sea.

95330 Hwy 101 S, Yachats; 541-547-3925; from $165
It’s hard to imagine the coastline between Cape Perpetua and Heceta Head getting any more stunning. But that’s because you haven’t experienced it from within this four-story terraced pyramid—a prism of wood and glass offering continual glimpses and new perspectives on the swaying sedges, crashing white water, roiling storms, and kaleidoscopic sunsets. With cozy, window-generous rooms, decadent tile showers, and a muscle-melting sauna, the Ziggurat B&B is a mind-bending and nourishing escape, with bird-watching, hiking, and tide-pool-hopping just steps outside your own personal pyramid. —RR


4 st jack seafood brunch 2 xrgnvi

With its wood paneling, leather booths, white linen tablecloths, and gold oil lanterns, this steak-and-seafood house looks like the kind of restaurant your grandparents would have called “our place.” Fortunately for us, well prepared dishes like wild chinook salmon and Quinault razor clams never go out of style.

Stop by this 30-year-old harborside café for homemade pies like your mom’s. You can’t go wrong with any of the 10–15 different varieties (made fresh daily), but the chocolate cream pie is an exercise in pure decadence—one that will leave you doing just what Mama asked: cleaning your plate.


Don’t just admire the Rogue from the shore in Gold Beach, where it tumbles into the sea; get on the water. For more than 100 years, the Rogue River Mail Boats have been making runs up this glorious, Wild & Scenic–designated river, cutting a twisting path through the fir-flecked Rogue River Wilderness Area. Choose a 64-, 80-, or 104-mile trip, and let something besides the sea breeze blow your hair back. 


Jet boating on the Rogue River

The low-lying dunes, sea-stack-strewn shore, and constant break make this park popular with picnickers and surfers alike. But for a real treat, wait for the breeze to pick up, then watch the water rodeo unfold as windsurfers ride the tide. You’ll come to see why this scenic spot has thrice hosted the national championship windsurfing competition.

Named after the Spanish explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno, who sailed here in 1603, Cape Sebastian ensures adventure and sweeping coastal views. From the top of the cape you can see some 50 miles south, into California, and to the north you’ll spy the swell of Humbug Mountain 43 miles away. If you start at the top, you get the grand vistas (and potentially a whale sighting) first, before a steep trek through a lush Sitka spruce forest delivers you to Meyers Beach.

Filed under
Show Comments