Yes, Austin is the capital of Texas. But it’s also its front door, loaded with locals who can’t wait to tell out-of-towners about their favorite underrated taco trucks, invite them to secret raves in tunnels, or show them how to two-step on a crowded dance floor. The “Keep Austin Weird” motto, established in 2000—sorry, Portland, this is the Texas city’s birthright—reflects a creative ethos seen in both fun-loving festivals (consider the drum circles and painted faces of Eeyore’s Birthday Party, held every April since the 1960s) and world-shifting innovations (Twitter debuted at South by Southwest in 2007).

Though an influx of tech companies and start-up money has increased the cost of living, the construction sites and Teslas can’t quash the city’s Mexican and cowboy heritages; hit up the Mexic-Arte Museum and feel the Willie Nelson vibes everywhere. Majestic live oaks line the streets and free-tailed bats live under the Congress Avenue Bridge. Of course so many types of travelers want a piece of Austin: solo adventurers on peaceful hikes, families touring the state capitol and hitting tiny balls at the timelessly wacky Peter Pan Mini Golf, and bachelorette and bachelor parties roaming in matching outfits from ritzy cocktail bars to grungy dives. Plus, it doesn’t hurt that you can wear shorts, comfortably, in December. Nonstop flights from PDX are around four hours, so Portlanders can grab a ticket and be sweating over barbecue by dinnertime.

Eat

Tacos and barbecue are the city’s bread and butter, and the best of the former can be found at any location of Veracruz All Natural. The homegrown food business, run by sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez, serves the best breakfast tacos in town, with the option to drench them in a salsa roja buzzing with the smoky, high-powered voltage of chile de árbol. Head to the Webberville Road truck and order a migas, a hefty taco of eggs scrambled with fried tortilla chip shards and a lively pico de gallo, held together with jack cheese. Follow it up with a playful latte—the brown sugar miso is megapopular—at neighboring truck Desnudo Coffee.

Meanwhile, a newer crop of Austin pitmasters builds upon Texas’s barbecue traditions while applying true-to-them lenses. At food truck Distant Relatives, Damien Brockway uses techniques and ingredients rooted in the African diaspora to produce the likes of gravy-smothered pork chops and pulled pork paired with tangy tamarind molasses barbecue sauce. The truck is parked at Meanwhile Brewing, which has a massive outdoor patio—and a helles that pairs perfectly with smoky meats.

For essential Texan fare beyond the aforementioned standbys, head to bustling South Lamar Boulevard for a meal at Odd Duck, which has an origin story that’s an Austin restaurant tale as old as time. Owner Bryce Gilmore and the team started the operation as a truck and later turned it into a New Texan brick-and-mortar serving seasonal, Texas-sourced produce and meats like goat-topped pizza and stuffed quail. Though the menu changes often, don’t miss the dry-aged wagyu burger, topped with unexpected ingredients like chicharrónes or fried beer cheese.

Stay

As Austin grows, the number of hotels swells on a seemingly daily basis, and the options can overwhelm. Portlanders seeking familiar architecture can head to the Heywood Hotel (rooms from around $200), a Craftsman bungalow with homey rooms that blends easily into its East Austin neighborhood, with lots of great bars and restaurants within walking distance. 

Downtown, the luxe Fairmont Austin (rooms from around $250) offers breathtaking views and attentive guest services. A world-class spa has an indoor hot tub and lounge chairs facing the city skyline, and the giant seventh-floor pool is made for all-day lounging.

The Austin Motel (rooms from $165), which dates back to 1938, gives a taste of yesterday. Though South Congress Avenue has shed its scruffy past and transformed into a premier shopping strip, the hotel keeps its roots alive with bright red vinyl beds, a fabulous kidney-shaped pool lined with lawn chairs, and an iconic marquee sign with phrases that change daily. Nearby, browse for cowboy boots at Allens Boots, vintage duds at Feathers, and art prints at Paper Work. 

Play

Join Austin’s active masses with a climb up Mount Bonnell, where 102 limestone steps lead to 360-degree vistas of the city and the Colorado River. Those accustomed to the Cascades might sniff at its 775-foot elevation, but it’s tall for Austin, and offers fun and somewhat voyeuristic views of the lavish homes below. Thank Richard Linklater if the historic park looks familiar; the Austin filmmaker set Slacker’s final scene here. Afterward, stop at nearby Mayfield Park for lush greenery, walking paths, and a roaming family of peacocks. 

Everyone knows Barton Springs Pool for its spring-fed water, pecan trees, and slithering (and endangered) salamanders, but the city’s sleeper hit is West Austin’s Deep Eddy Municipal Pool. The ever-so-cold water also comes from a nearby spring, but the cement bottom means no slipping over rocks—and smaller crowds allow for more space to swim and lounge.

Any proper Austin day ends with dancing. Don your Stetson at the White Horse, an inclusive, young-skewing honky-tonk with donation-based two-step lessons three nights a week. Or head for the intimate, laser-lit floor at queer-forward Outer Heaven Disco Club, with karaoke on weeknights and DJs spinning disco and dance-pop on Fridays and Saturdays. 

Big Texas Wine Energy

Did you know Texas wine is good? It really is, and its hub is the Hill Country,
a sprawling region west of Austin that’s home to more than 100 wineries. The
shining star, out in tiny Hye, is William Chris Vineyards, which uses Old World techniques to create Texas-forever bottles, including a standout pet-nat. For an under-the-radar option, pop by Johnson City’s Crowson Wines, which pours deeply rich reds that aren’t widely available elsewhere. For Indian-ish takes on Texas wines, try Fredericksburg’s Kalasi Cellars, which complements its tastings with dosa chips and chocolate bars flavored with saffron or cardamom. Be sure to say hello to the guard llamas outside. End your tour by raising a toast at Fall Creek Vineyards in Driftwood, the region’s OG winery and the force behind the 1991 establishment of the official Texas Hill Country American Viticultural Area.