About five years ago, Portland suddenly emerged as The Next Food Place: a handcrafted, farm-fresh, willfully eccentric island of pleasure, much of it enjoyable at grass-hut prices. As the rest of the country grew infatuated with rock-star chefs and outlandish theatrical dining, Portland cooks went their own way, conjuring food experiences other cities’ chefs could only dream of, courtesy of the world-class produce grown here, the cheap rents, and an artisan-loving audience eager to try alm...