AMONG the many ways cooks and local food entrepreneurs have polished Portland’s reputation as America’s new food frontier is by recrafting mainstream eateries. We now have a steak house without filet mignon (Laurelhurst Market), a fast-food joint free of cartoon mascots and chicken strips (Little Big Burger), and a sports bar that plays a spinach salad with chanterelles over nachos (Spirit of 77). But despite proximity to two rivers and a...