Since the departure of longtime chef David Anderson in December of 2012, the menu at Southeast Belmont's Genoa has undergone a slow but sure metamorphosis from refined Italian to ingredient-driven modernism under new leading man Jake Martin.

Martin's February menu—with highlights like tender leek-wrapped sole perched on a dark slash of sepia mascarpone, a salad of curly compressed cucumbers and black olives, and crispy-skinned chicken with savory smoked mussels—shows how far he's come since his days at Fenouil.

The result is a painterly assortment of contemporary dishes that will add Genoa's name to the short list of Portland restaurants persuasively exploring modernist cuisine, but don't take my word for it. Check out my slide show of dishes from the new menu by clicking the photo above, and stop in for yourself to taste the next era of a Portland classic.

Genoa
2832 SE Belmont St
503-238-1464
genoarestaurant.com