Bent Brick Lets Its Hair Down

Scott Dolich is back in the kitchen with a new direction for his Northwest Portland tavern, swapping modernist cuisine for customizable comfort food.

By Allison Jones March 12, 2013

After the departure of opening chef Will Preisch in February, chef/owner Scott Dolich relaunched the menu at his NW Marshall brick-and-ivy tavern the Bent Brick...and the results are delicious.

The new offerings center around house-made sausages, a la carte "roasts and cuts", and a wide assortment of creative and nostalgia-inducing sides, salads, soups, and snacks, allowing diners to mix and match to create their own combos.

The familiar flavors and casual presentation—sausages arrive aside a mound of crispy chips in a wicker basket and hot-from-the-oven sides come to the table in still-sizzling cast iron cookware—signal a major change from Preisch's conceptual, modern dishes that often felt out of place in the worn-in historical building.

In an interview with Eat Beat in December, Dolich remarked that "the Bent Brick is a cool spot, it's quirky, but it's not upscale, and Will's food had an aura of being upscale...You can't just have great food and a pretty space, it has to be great food that belongs in that pretty space." With dishes like "hamburger dogs" topped with cheese and house-made relish, decadent duck fat potato jojos with ranch, and a kids menu to keep pace with the neighborhood's family-friendly vibe, Dolich and his sous chefs Ryan Mead and William Marquardt certainly seem to have met that goal.

The Bent Brick
1639 NW Marshall Street

While the menu is a drastic departure from its previous incarnation, at least one thing remains constant: Dolich's steadfast dedication to local sourcing and in-house preparations. The bar is still stocked with domestic booze, and a fun new "condiment caddy" showcases the kitchen's refusal to cut corners (think custom tomato ketchup, Old Bay mayo, bright pink sauerkraut, and house hot sauce).

Click through to the slideshow above to check out highlights from the new steakhouse-style menu, and head into the Bent Brick soon to try Dolich's comforting offerings for yourself.

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