Taste Test

PoMo Taste Test: The Best (and Worst) Hot Sauces

We compared eight Oregon-made hot sauces, including classics like Secret Aardvark and newcomers including Hab Sauce and Newks. Which one belongs in your fridge?

By Katherine Chew Hamilton August 1, 2023

Here at Portland Monthly, we firmly believe that there’s a hot sauce for everyone. From fruity to fishy to pickle-flavored, in consistencies from watery to a thick paste, there’s a variety for every dish and palate.  We tried eight Oregon-made hot sauces, sampling from all parts of the hot sauce spectrum, along with Juanita’s Tortilla Chips (another quintessentially Portland brand). These are the hot sauces we loved—and the ones we didn’t.


Best Overall Hot Sauce

Image: Michael Novak

Sakari Farms Fire Roasted Hot Sauce

We hadn’t heard about Sakari Farms until stumbling upon it at a store. But this Indigenous-owned farm in Tumalo (near Bend) makes a sleeper-hit hot sauce. The flavor is more unusual than its run-of-the-mill name implies: surprisingly smoky from wood-smoked jalapeño, moderately spicy, and full of tang from roasted tomatillos. Our testers unanimously liked it.

Enjoyable Hot Sauces

Image: Michael Novak

Hab Sauce Garlic Turmeric Habanero 

This hot sauce was met with quiet chip-crunching and satisfied mmms from our testers, who appreciated its hot-but-not-too-hot zing. What makes it unique, along with the turmeric, is the addition of orange and lemon juice for a fruit-forward tang. “It has an unusual flavor, but it’s pretty agreeable,” said another tester.

Image: Michael Novak

Secret Aardvark Habanero Hot Sauce

This classic Portland hot sauce, started in 2004, is so common that it’s become a standard Portland condiment at many restaurants. The secret to its success is its balance of sweet and hot, with a complex flavoring of tomatoes, habanero peppers, white wine vinegar and mustard. Its texture is thick and ideal for accurate placement on food, alongside a bright orange-red color, and an assertive spice that doesn’t compete with food.

Image: Michael Novak

Sibeiho AF Chili Chunka Sambal

Visually, this one stands out from the rest with its salsa-like, spoonable texture; a sambal, after all, is more of a chile paste than a hot sauce. It’s easy to see why this Singaporean-style sambal won a Good Food Award in 2022; it’s got a complex flavor that balances lots of garlic with a punch of white vinegar and surprisingly fruity chiles. “I would put it on a cheese plate, on rice, on meat,” said one tester. Another commented, “I’d get in trouble with this one.”

Divisive Hot Sauces

Image: Michael Novak

Newks Grillo’s Pickles Hot Sauce

Pickles are always a divisive ingredient. This pickle-juice-meets-hot-sauce collab was no different. Some of our testers are big fans of the Grillo’s Pickles brand, but found the pickle notes a bit too strong. “It just tastes like pickle juice,” said one tester. Another offered, “I really like it. It would be good on fries.”

Image: Michael Novak

Hot Mama Salsa La Chava Lavanda Peach Habanero Hot Sauce

Based on the ingredients—habanero, peach, lavender—we were skeptical this sauce could find balance. While we liked the creeping heat and juicy peach flavor, for most of us, it went too far with in-your-face lavender. In the end, it tastes more like a spicy, floral jam than a hot sauce. It’s completely overpowering on a chip, but we started thinking of other possible applications: maybe on a breakfast biscuit with butter? Or a cheese plate? Brie, manchego? We steer you toward other Hot Mama Salsa products, like their salsas and excellent smoked coffee chili oil.

Hot Sauces to Avoid

Image: Michael Novak

Wet Wizard Los Roast Verde

We had high hopes for this hot sauce, made in collaboration with St. Johns-based hatch chile roasters Los Roast. But the sauce is disappointingly bland, neither salty nor spicy enough, without detectable hatch chile flavor.

Image: Michael Novak

Marshall’s Haute Sauce Red Chile Lime

The bright-red color of this one made us immediately suspicious, and those suspicions were soon confirmed: it is watery, barely spicy, and very sweet, thanks to the addition of honey. Our testers drew comparisons to other condiments—ketchup, shrimp cocktail sauce—and agreed that calling this a “hot sauce” is dubious. And even in applications where it would work, testers were frustrated by its thinness and the inability to control where it lands on food. “Being able to place hot sauce intentionally is very important,” said a tester.

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