Taste Test

The Best (and Worst) Black Teas, from Portland and Beyond

We pitted four teas by local favorite Steven Smith Teamaker against national brands like Lipton.

By Arianne Cohen October 31, 2023

Unlike our taste tests of ketchups, ice creams, cheeses, and a dozen other foods, we found that readily available black teas are—for the most part—surprisingly similar. As a group, they’re much more alike than different, and so, for the first time ever, we’ll say: you really can’t go wrong with six of the seven black teas on this list (though number seven is truly best avoided).

If you have an attuned tea palate, or just want the best in life, read on for our picks of the best teas available on store shelves near you. Here we pitted three black teas by local institution Steven Smith Teamaker against national stalwarts.


Excellent Teas

Smith British Brunch English Black Tea No. 18

Our testers’ unanimous favorite, this tea embodies easy sipping at its best: smooth, subtle, and sweet smelling. Honey is optional, because it’s already sweet. “It’s more gentle than you’d expect from tea branded as ‘British’,” said one tester. Indeed, it’s soothing, and ideal for perking yourself up when nursing a cold.

Stash English Breakfast Black Tea

Our testers all liked this tea’s fresh and smooth feel; it leaves a little sharpness on the tongue—just enough to make you thirsty for more. Testers suggested it as perfect for after lunch. “It’s has real afternoon vibes,” said one tester. “It would be good with a sweet snack.” Even our non-tea-drinking colleague concurred. “I would buy this one. It’s approachable and not aggressive.”

Good Teas

Smith Portland Breakfast Organic Black Tea No. 1851

This is a great tea for people seeking a mild morning brew. It’s smooth, without any unpleasant  bitterness, and decidedly not harsh, all with a lightly floral scent. It is, however, pleasantly astringent, lightly puckering your taste buds. “This is pure black tea. No frills,” said one tester. The messaging on the box is particularly steeped in Oregon lifestyle ethos: “Steep five minutes. Indulge in a decadent donut.”

Lipton Black Tea

This reliable classic is the go-to tea for recipes or mindless sipping: tart astringency, but not sharp or dry on the tongue. In short, it tastes like black tea. It is by far the cheapest of our options, and perfectly suitable for a crowd. “It’s the Philadelphia Cream Cheese of teas,” said one taster.

Boring Teas

Smith Lord Bergamot Earl Grey Black Tea No. 55

We failed to taste bergamot in this tea, and found it, well, dull. “It just kind of disappears in your mouth. There’s not a lot of finish,” said one tester. While certainly fine and functional, its taste lacks complexity and staying power.

Smith Kandy Black Tea Blend No. 23

With a name like Kandy, we were expecting much more. This tea is best described as blah, with an uninteresting and simple flavor that lingers. “It’s unremarkable,” said one tester. Its most noteworthy trait? Its preparation instructions: “Steep five minutes while Googling the ornate palace of the sacred tooth.” We have no doubt that the city of its namesake, Kandy, Sri Lanka, is far more intriguing.

Tea to Avoid

Equal Exchange Organic Irish Breakfast Tea

If you’re looking for a tea to replace your morning coffee, Irish breakfast tea is the way to go. Except don’t reach for this one. It’s too aggressive. Rather than strong, this tea overwhelms, sending one tester into a coughing fit. After recovering, she described it as “very in-your-face.”

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