Sonya Sanford’s Middle Eastern–Inspired Cheesecake Recipe

Image: Michael Novak
It’s been a shattering year, with conflicts halfway around the globe flaring tensions here in Portland. Chef and recipe developer Sonya Sanford finds healing through cooking and baking, particularly in bringing people together around cultures’ most enduring exports: their cuisines.
Sanford has weathered her own challenges in recent years: her Beetroot Market & Deli on NW Glisan Street found its footing just as the pandemic arrived, and later shuttered. She’s back to hosting a podcast called Food Friends and can be found serving up this sunshiny yellow cheesecake at gatherings, including for the late-spring Jewish holiday of Shavuot, which this year falls the second week of June. The crust is enjoyably loose, almost like a coffee cake, supporting the light tang of custardy filling.
This cheesecake centers on labneh, the super-strained yogurt that has been eaten across the Middle East for thousands of years. (The word comes from Arabic for yogurt, laban.)
Our staff tucked into Sanford’s cheesecake, which is pleasantly delicate, without the heaviness typical of cheesecake. Our usually opinionated editors had no notes. “It’s dangerous!” said digital engagement editor Dalila Brent. “I’ll just have a bite. And then another little bite....”
Labneh Cheesecake with Strawberry Sauce
labneh
-
32 oz plain whole-milk yogurt
Crust
-
150 g graham crackers (9–10 whole
crackers) - 2 tbsp sugar
- ¼ tsp salt
-
5 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
Filling
- 2 cups labneh
- ½ cup sour cream
- ½ cup sugar
- 3 large eggs, at room temperature
- 2 tsp vanilla extract
-
¼ tsp salt
Sauce
-
3 cups strawberries, fresh or frozen,
stems removed - ½ cup sugar
- Juice of ½ lemon
- ¼ tsp salt
-
2 tsp cornstarch
For the Labneh
Line a mesh strainer with cheesecloth, place over a large bowl, and add yogurt. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours, or overnight. Discard the liquid and transfer to an airtight container. You’ll have enough labneh for this recipe, and maybe even some left over.
Crust Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch springform pan or pie pan, or 9½-inch tart pan. Put the graham crackers in a bag and crush them to fine crumbles. Transfer to a small bowl, and combine with sugar and salt. With your hands, mix in the butter until it resembles wet sand. Press into the greased pan to form a thin, even crust, using a glass or a measuring cup to flatten the sides. “The bottom can be much thinner than you think,” Sanford writes. “It will seem fragile, but will hold up well once baked.” The crust on the side should be thicker than the bottom, and should go up as high as 1 inch, depending on the pan. Bake crust for 10 minutes, or until darker in color and firmer.
Labneh Filling
Whisk together 2 cups labneh, sour cream, sugar, and salt. Add eggs one at a time, making sure each is fully incorporated, and then whisk in vanilla extract. Pour mixture onto the slightly cooled crust. Bake at 350 degrees for 20–24 minutes, until the edges start to set and the center is very jiggly when moving the pan. Cooking time may be quicker with a tart pan—check after 15 minutes. Don’t overbake. Cool at room temperature for 1 hour, then transfer to the fridge for at least 6 hours, ideally 12–24 hours. Serve topped with fruit, whipped cream, or strawberry sauce. Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Strawberry Sauce
Combine strawberries, sugar, lemon juice, and salt in a pot with ¼ cup water, bring to simmer, and simmer for 3–4 minutes, until sugar dissolves and strawberries soften but still hold shape. Whisk cornstarch with 2 tsp water, and then add to pot and simmer 1 minute. Sauce should easily coat spoon. Let cool, then transfer to fridge. Sauce can be made up to 2 days in advance.
You can find this recipe and others from Sanford in her new cookbook, Braids: Recipes from My Pacific Northwest Jewish Kitchen.