In late 2024, Fancy Baby opened in the Pearl District as Portland’s hottest new wine bar, one with a particular focus on Champagne. Owner William Oben utilized his own import company, OWC, to stock a massive supply of hard-to-find bubbly from the world’s most celebrated region, as well as more affordable European bottles and glass pours. But at the start of 2026, Oben closed the shop for a month to reorient. In early February, Fancy Baby reopened as Il Corso; Oben’s great-grandfather earned the nickname El Corso when he emigrated from Corsica to Puerto Rico. Rather than Champagne and fried chicken with caviar, visitors will find housemade pasta, imported salumi, and Italian wines.  

Chef Brady Stephens, previously of Jacqueline, OK Omens, and Scotch Lodge, helms the kitchen at the new concept. Stephens keeps it light and focused: Imported cured meats like finocchiona and aged prosciutto, Italian cheeses, and snacky small plates like tuna carpaccio and fried goat cheese make up the bulk of the menu, with a few fresh pasta dishes for heartier meals. Behind the bar, Lisa Talbert, also from Scotch Lodge, crafts aperitifs and spritzes like the sherry- and vermouth-based Bamboo and Adonis. Lacking a license for spirits, the bar features fortified wines in its mixed drinks. Glass pours lean heavily Italian— though a few French and West Coast wines make appearances—and diners can expect the list to change frequently.  

Fans of Fancy Baby shouldn’t be too disappointed: While you may no longer be able to order grower Champagne by the ounce, there are still plenty of bottles of bubbly to be found, as well as cool, Old World still wines. 

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